Friday, September 13, 2013

Toronto Popup with Chef Trish Gill

The organs and trimmings of a butchered animal, or offal meats, often get a bad rep. This bad rep usually stems from the opinions of the "anti-offals" - individuals that can't get past offal’s stigma.  Some anti-offals are not totally against these trimmings; for them it depends on presentation. For instance, a lot of anti-offals eat sausages without realizing that its skin is often made from intestines. Some anti-offals are even okay with devouring chicken liver pâté or foie gras on toast because it is less daunting compared to eating heart or brain. However, if they take a minute and cast aside their biases, they will likely find themselves enjoying these mildly grotesque yet delicate and affordable cuts of meat because they are actually quite delicious, as well as nutritious (using these cuts also shows respect to the animal).

Being Chinese, I've grown up with eating livers, brains, blood, feet and kidneys all my life. Almost every animal part is used in Chinese cooking so I've embraced these entrails ever since I was little. There's always a place in my heart stomach for offal (how sappy) especially offal in different cuisines which is precisely why I was really excited about chef Trish Gill's (@gilltrishoffal-centric menu at Toronto Pop Up (Twitter: @Toronto_PopUp, Facebook: Toronto Popup). Here's a recap of chef Trish's five-course "Curious Cuts" dinner at Monarch Tavern:


First course at the pass and ready to go.


FIRST COURSE
THREE BITES: CHEEKS, HEART, LIVER
Wine - James Oatley Tick Tok Chardonnay
Craft Beer - King Pilsner, King Brewery


SECOND COURSE
CRISP SWEETBREADS, ASPARAGUS & PEAS, RHUBARB
Wine - San Jacopo Da Vichiomaggio Rose IGT
Craft Beer - Beaus Lug Treat Lagered Ale


Chef Trish has it all under control ;)


THIRD COURSE
ROASTED BONE MARROW, ROOT VEGETABLES, BURNT TOAST
Wine - Henry of Pelham Baco Noir VQA
Craft Beer - Hissyfit Grisette


FOURTH COURSE
BRAISED RABBIT & KIDNEYS, WALNUTS, LIME
Wine - Concilio Pinot Noir Vigneti Delle Dolom
Craft Beer - The Devil Made Me Double Dry Hop It


The homestretch!


FIFTH COURSE
PIG'S FOOT PUDDING, BERRIES, GRANOLA
Wine - Kopke Full Rich Ruby Port
Craft Beer - KLB Raspberry Wheat Ale


Even the most squeamish would have loved chef Trish's Curious Cuts menu. Currently at Catch (@catch_toronto) restaurant on St.Clair, chef Trish's five-course dinner was perfect for neophytes. All the offal meats featured that evening were amazingly tender (a requirement for me) with a terrific variety in textures and tastes. For the first course, the liver was subtle and silky while the heart had a richer taste. The cheeks were sufficiently cooked so that it was creamy - it went very well with the crunchy cucumber slices and the soft bun. The sweetbreads in the second course were again very soft and subtle and so delicious with the fresh peas. Next up was the soft and jelly-like bone marrow; always a favourite of mine and this was no exception. Oh and I must say that chef Trish does a mean braised rabbit stew. Everyone at the table couldn't get enough of it! Full of flavour, the rabbit and kidney concoction was nice and hearty. It was an excellent finish to the savoury courses. Finally, pig's feet in dessert ? Who'd have thunk it'? Topped with fresh berries and crunchy granola, the pudding was delightful.

Offal need not be awful and this is proof! :)

Interested in checking out Toronto Pop Up? Well you're in luck. On Sunday, September 22nd, Toronto Pop Up brings you ESÉ Suavecito, a night of Mexican cuisine which will feature innovative ingredients and techniques that highlight the unique culinary landscape of Los Angeles and the Southwest. Ryan and Peter of ESÉ (@ESEsuavecito) take pride in making everything from scratch — from the complexity of a slow cooked sauce to the routine of hand-pressing their own tortillas. 

ESÉ Suavecito's five course tasting menu on September 22nd will revolve around Mexican small plates or antojitos ("little cravings") and an exploration of the unique ingredients and flavours found in the Southwest such as Flor de Jamaica (Hibiscus) and Huitlacoche (Cornsmut). Wine and beer pairings will be available, as well as tequila cocktails with special ingredients to complete the experience. Click here for more details!

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